Some time in the past when filmmaker Vivek Agnihotri wrote a presumptuous tweet proposing the thought of a vegetarian ‘wazwan’ — the standard Kashmiri meat-based meal — social media erupted in spontaneous protests. What an oxymoron, folks mentioned. The Twitter tempest petered out in a day, however the concept that prompted the tweet is an previous and ending one, and deeply rooted within the nation’s meals politics.
The notion that the delicacies of Muslim Kashmiris — the final word embodiment of “the other” — is a meaty monolith has been formed primarily by cultural conditioning on each side of the socio-religious-culinary border. This is to not indicate that Kashmiri meals is predominantly vegetarian or that wazwan is however the figment of a carnivore’s creativeness. The culinary grandeur of wazwan should certainly be skilled to be believed, however this multi-course meal is not all there’s to the Valley’s culinary heritage.
Among the nice surprises within the area’s variegated gastronomic canvas is the road meals which, barring the craft barbeque meats, is primarily vegetarian, bordering on vegan. These dishes have managed to carry their very own regardless of the ubiquity of momos, golgappa and egg roll, and like native road eats the world over, communicate to the area’s distinctive meals heritage.
From masala tsot, the final word Kashmiri seize ‘n’ go meal that consists of a lavasa bread full of mashed chickpeas generously slathered with a spicy chutney, to nadur monje (lotus stem fritters) or gaer monje (deep-fried water chestnuts), and the jhal muri-reminiscent masala wari muth (vast number of indigenous beans and wheat berries boiled with salt and spices and topped with fried onions) that is served in paper cones, there’s a plethora of snacks to select from. And similar to anyplace else on the planet, these road meals stalls are present in a lot within the neighborhood of colleges, schools, places of work and native shrines.
- Nadur Monje
- 1/2 kg lotus stems
- 1 tbsp Kashmiri purple chilli powder
- 250 gm rice flour
- 2 cups of water
- 2 tbsp cumin seeds (non-compulsory)
- 350 ml mustard oil for frying
- Salt to style
- 1. Peel and wash the lotus stems. Chop the stems, slicing every into 4 vertical items.
- 2. In a mixing bowl, add the salt, Kashmiri purple chili powder, cumin seeds, and rice flour to the sliced lotus stems.
- 3. Add water and blend until all of the stems are properly coated with the rice flour batter.
- 4. Heat the mustard oil in a deep-frying pan.
- 5. Add the batter-coated lotus stems and fry utilizing a skimmer ladle.
- 6. Take the fritters out as soon as they purchase a deep brownish-red color.
- 7. Serve scorching with redish chutney.
For these with a candy tooth, there’s indulgence within the type of the chewy basrak, a form of deep-fried hole pastry coated with sugar syrup; and shangram, deep-fried nuggets of maida, semolina, milk, sugar and ghee. While the latter is barely lesser identified and usually loved as a teatime snack in properties, basrak is the sweetmeat of alternative for particular events and, in current occasions, has discovered iteration in plush bakeries, with the addition of premium components akin to khoya and nuts .
Today, many of those old-time favorites evoke fond nostalgia within the common Kashmiri. “Every day, while returning from school, we would each buy a fat masala tsot for ₹5 and saunter along, taking bites off the wrap. Even now, I find no snack quite as delicious, healthy and easy to eat as masala tsot,” says Bilal Ahmed Dar, a resident of downtown Srinagar. “Dishes like masala tsot and basrak evoke nostalgia as well as a sense of pride in our Kashmiri identity,” says the 35-year-old businessman.
Despite the wide selection of native snacks and their attraction among the many Valley’s residents, these meals are but to develop into mainstream la bhelpuri or aloo tikki. Kashmiris seldom wax eloquent about their indigenous delicacies save for the mutton-dominated wazwan feast.
“We are a society driven by classism and nowhere is this more apparent than in our attitude towards our street foods,” says Owais Ashraf, a 27-year-old regulation pupil and resident of Budgam. “Despite their popularity, these street eats remain more or less confined to bazaars next to shrines or busy marketplaces. Eating these ‘cheap’ items is looked down upon. It is this deep collective reluctance to own our food heritage that has led to many street foods languishing in anonymity,” he says.
Though the federal government has in current occasions tried to advertise Kashmiri road meals as a part of its tourism initiatives, residents say extra proactive steps are wanted. “To begin with, street foods can be included in the menu of government-run restaurants, and food kiosks can be set up at cultural festivals. The government could also invite food bloggers and influencers to sample and promote Kashmir’s street foods. Food writers and critics must create literature on the Valley’s food scene to help with awareness,” says Mohd. Azhar Abbas, 29, a Srinagar-based entrepreneur related to the hospitality and tourism sector.
Interestingly, massive numbers of home vacationers who go to Kashmir rely completely on ‘Vaishno Dhabas’, the Valley’s generic non-A/C eating places that serve all-vegetarian North Indian fare. In doing so, they miss out on native gastronomic experiences which might be an integral a part of journey. According to Abbas, non-public tour operators and journey businesses could make a distinction by incorporating road meals excursions in vacationer itineraries.
“Wazwan isnt all we eat, and it certainly isn’t all we have to be proud of,” says Dar with half a smile and a glint of pleasure in his eyes.
The author is a full-time ruminator and part-time freelancer.